Lightroom seems to ignore the mode I'm shooting in and dulls my colors on import. As a test, I shot identical pictures in ''Normal'', ''More Vivid'', and ''Black and White''. These were obviously all distinctly different on the LCD, but upon import into Lightroom, I had three identical images (dull color). I am also pleased with how B%26amp;W photos turn out in the D80's black and white mode, and would like to use that as a starting point for my black and white editing in Lightroom, but I can't since it converts them to the same flat color.
How can I get Lightroom to...quit doing that??
Maintaining Image Optimizations on...
By developing a preset in LR using the Deveop Module that comes close to emulating the 'LCD' and applying it on import. LR applies what the Adobe team deemed was needed rather than what the camera jpeg style settings were because that is harder for them to reproduce with so many cameras. Gives you a more neutral starting point. But, you can set your own starting point as I said or used the 'Zero Preset' which really starts you and the ground floor and you can creativley develop the RAW files as you want.
Don
Don Ricklin, MacBook 1.83Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.4.9 %26amp; Win XP, Pentax *ist D
http://donricklin.blogspot.com/
Maintaining Image Optimizations on...
That is because the more vivid like saturation, sharpness, contrast, etc.
that you set in the camera are not applied to the RAW image. If they were
applied to the RAW image it wouldn't be a RAW image. If you want those
settings have an effect then shoot JPG.
If you want to save yourself some trouble but still want to shoot in raw
then create a preset in Lightroom that amps up the saturation or vibrance
and then tell LR to apply that preset to your images as they are imported
in.
Robert
%26gt; How can I get Lightroom to...quit doing that??
Lightroom uses the RAW data. The RAW data is unaffected by any and all in-camera settings other than the exposure settings. LR uses its own algorithms and settings to convert the image irrespective of any in-camera settings.
If you want different settings, I suggest you create a develop preset and apply it on import.
I had a feeling that that's just ''not the way to do it''.
I had just figured that since the image shows up correct on the LCD that maybe the camera was writing a file that includes this optimization data that Lightroom could also import alongside the RAW.
%26gt; I had just figured that since the image shows up correct on the LCD that maybe the camera was writing a file that includes this optimization data that Lightroom could also import alongside the RAW.
The JPEG yes. The RAW, is RAW.
Three simultaneus (almost) similar answers should drive the point home.
Don
Don Ricklin, MacBook 1.83Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.4.9 %26amp; Win XP, Pentax *ist D
http://donricklin.blogspot.com/
I also own a Nikon D80 and have played with some of the presets. There is even a preset that will emulate the sRGB III mode in a Nikon posted on this site.
http://inside-lightroom.com/
That being said, I must be getting the hang of things because I prefer my own presets. Actually I usually just do my adjustments on one photo, and then sync, auto sync, or cut and paste all the settings to all the similar photos.
Think about it this way. I am a casual hobbyist. Before I fill up a memory card, I may go to a birthday party, shoot some pictures around the house, and have a few more from a local park. Each one has substantially different lighting and adjustment needs. I will rarely think to adjust for these three scenarios in camera (I'll probably forget). So rather than have the same setting applied to all 200 photos, I have the opportunity to adjust for these scenarios in LR.
--
Doug
The reason the image on the LCD shows the adjusted camera settings is because the changes are applied to the JPG thumbnail/preview that is embedded in the RAW file. As others have said, the RAW file is ''RAW'', no adjustments . . . the camera settings are only applied to JPGs.
I am amazed that anyone can tell much of anything from the camera's lcd. It's way brighter on my Canons on underexposed shots than it 'should' be, so I really have to look at the histogram if I'm to tell anything about exposure, or even focus or camera blur.
And I am sure that the little screen is not color managed with a display profile so who knows what your seeing!
Don
Don Ricklin, MacBook 1.83Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.4.9 %26amp; Win XP, Pentax *ist D
http://donricklin.blogspot.com/
It also illustrates the point that the more OoF an image is, the smaller it should be when displayed!
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